Types Of Vacuum Cleaners.

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In the world of vacuum cleaners there many types of vacuums each having its own specific task. Residential vacuums are usually inexpensively priced and are light weight. Commercial vacuum cleaners come in two common forms, the upright vacuum cleaner and the back pack vacuum cleaner. Floor maintenance personal will usually utilize a wet dry vacuum for removing old stripper and water from newly refinished floors. Contactors and construction crews will usually use a commercial heavy duty vacuum for construction cleanup and renovations.


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In the world of vacuum cleaners there many types of vacuums each having its own specific task. Residential vacuums are usually inexpensively priced and are light weight. Commercial vacuum cleaners come in two common forms, the upright vacuum cleaner and the back pack vacuum cleaner. Floor maintenance personal will usually utilize a wet dry vacuum for removing old stripper and water from newly refinished floors. Contactors and construction crews will usually use a commercial heavy duty vacuum for construction cleanup and renovations.

Residential vacuum cleaners usually sell for under $400 dollars and can have a life expectancy of up to 5 years. Residential vacuum cleaners have a plastic body and one motor that drives both the brush and operates the vacuum motor. The cord on a residential vacuum cleaner does not have a ground fault plug and the overall unit is often smaller than commercial vacuums. The most common brands of residential vacuum cleaners are Hoover and Eureka each about 20 vacuum cleaners in its vacuum cleaner line up. Residential vacuum cleaners come in both filter bag and non filter bag cyclonic models and are made to be used occasionally up to 5 times a week over a 5 year period.

Commercial vacuum cleaners are made with either plastic or metal bodies and are made to withstand more punishment than residential vacuum cleaners. Most commercial vacuum cleaner cords are at least 50ft long and contain a ground fault protector. An easy way to tell if a vacuum has a ground fault protector is to make sure it has three prongs at the end of the plug. Having a ground fault protector will help to ensure the safety of the vacuum cleaner operator in case the cord is severed by either the vacuum or a sharp object pressing against the cord. Commercial vacuum cleaners usually have two motors one that runs the brush and one that drives the vacuum.

Upright vacuum cleaners come in both residential and commercial models. Upright vacuum cleaners usually have a base that contains the beater brush and motors, and the bag or box enclosure that contains a filter bag or canister for debris. Upright vacuum cleaners can include many features such as front lights, brush height controls, on board hose and attachments and different power modes. Upright vacuum cleaners are great for flat open areas and small stairways.
Back pack vacuum cleaners are usually made up of a canister that is attached to a harness and a wand with a long hose. On back pack vacuum cleaners the canister is worn on the back and is usually made from light weight material like plastic or resin compounds. The canister on the vacuum cleaner usually contains a motor at one end and a filter bag at the other. The hose is usually connected to the top end of the vacuum and can be fitted with attachments for all types of cleaning jobs. Back pack vacuum cleaners are great for cleaning hard to reach places and large stairways. Because of the portability of these vacuum cleaners they are used commonly in commercial cleaning environments.

Wet dry vacuum cleaners are great for residential and commercial use. Disposable wet dry vacuum cleaners range from $20 to $500 dollars are are usually fitted with under powered motors or seals that will degrade over time. These vacuums usually have a life expectancy of about 3 years depending on how they are used. Most disposable wet dry vacuum cleaners have a plastic or resin tank and rigid plastic hose. Commercial wet dry vacuum cleaners are made for heavy duty applications such as construction cleanup and floor maintenance. Commercial wet dry vacuums come with heavy duty motors and replaceable seals and can have a life expectancy up to 10 years depending on how they are used. Commercial wet dry vacuum cleaners usually have a metal or hard resin canister with a heavy duty motor mounted on the top. Some commercial wet dry vacs can be fitted with a front mount squeegee and are great for floor maintenance cleanups or for cleaning up wet floors. When purchasing a wet dry vacuum make sure it has a three pronged plug and has ground protection circuitry for safety.

Wide area vacuum cleaners are wide vacuums which can measure up to 3 feet wide. These types of vacuum cleaners are perfect for large open areas such as conference centers, hotel hallways or banquet halls. Wide area vacuums can cut vacuuming time in open areas up to 50% compared to regular upright vacuum cleaners. Wide area vacuum cleaners have a beater brush that runs the whole length of the vacuum and large commercial heavy duty motors to create super powerful suction. The debris area within the wide area vacuum is usually quite large and can go for hours without empting. Wide area vacuum cleaners usually come in two types, walk behind and ride on. Ride on wide area vacuum cleaners are similar to a lawn tractor and contain a high power vacuum systems.

MV Plumbing

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If you have ever gone camping for a weekend, you know it doesn’t take long to miss running water, flushing toilets, clean clothes, and hot showers. These modern conveniences are the benefits of plumbing systems.


Plumbing

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Preventing Bathroom Mold

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As the most frequently wetted area in your home, the bathroom is where mold is most likely to grow. However, with some attention and proper maintenance, it is easy to prevent mold from growing and spreading in your bathroom.

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Your bathroom is one of the most wetted rooms in your home, and therefore is one of the rooms where mold is most likely to grow. The fact that heat and moisture are frequently generated in the bathroom promotes mold growth as these factors provide great conditions for mold to grow and flourish. Prevent mold in your bathroom is vital for your health and for the way your bathroom looks. In addition, if neglected and due to optimal growing conditions, bathroom mold is likely to spread internally through walls, ceilings, and floors, leading to an extremely expensive remediation costs. One of the key factors for bathroom mold prevention is frequent inspections to prevent water damage that can lead to mold growth. The first step in mold prevention is keeping your bathroom dry and airy. Use a humidity meter to check humidity levels before and after showers. Be sure to keep humidity levels below forty to forty five percent. If you allow adequate air circulation, your bathroom humidity levels should drop below 45 percent within 5-10 minutes from the minute you finished your shower.

Shower and Bathtub Maintenance

Keep the bathtub, floors, walls, and ceilings, clean and dry at all times. To prevent mold where it is very likely to grow, be sure to stretch the bathtub curtain after using the bathtub to allow equal and complete drying.

Air Flow

Allowing air flow and air circulation are key step in keeping low humidity levels. The basic technique and the simplest is to open windows and doors right after taking a shower to allow air to free flow and remove excess moisture. If you didn’t install an exhaust fan yet, do so as soon as possible as this is a great tool for bathroom ventilation. Turn on the exhaust fan while taking a bath or shower and leave it working for 5-10 more minutes after finishing using the bathroom to allow the bathroom to dry completely. Confirm that your fan exhausts outdoors directly.

Day to Day Maintenance

Day to day maintenance is important to prevent water damage and mold. It will also help detecting problems before they become a large scale disaster. Drains must be kept in good shape. Allow the bathtub to drain completely and by removing all debris and using drain openers from time to time. Create hard surfaces on your bathroom walls using semi-gloss paint. It is harder for mold to grow on these type of surfaces.

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Choose Your New Kitchen Countertop WiselyOr Be Very Sorry Later

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There are many types of kitchen countertop materials available on the market today. Some are of the do it yourself variety while others take special skill and tools to have installed. All kitchen countertop materials however have one thing in common. None are the perfect product for everyone.


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There are many types of kitchen countertop materials available on the market today. Some are of the do it yourself variety while others take special skill and tools to have installed. All kitchen countertop material however have one thing in common. None are the perfect product for everyone.

Take the most inexpensive kitchen countertop material, plastic laminate like the Formica (c) brand. This material is strong relatively stain resistant, comes in a wide assortment of colors, textures and designs and is rather easy to install. The negatives however include it can be cut easily when preparing food and it burns. Accidentally place a hot pan on your new plastic laminate kitchen countertop and you end up with a nice round burn mark. This is permanent and cannot be cleaned away. Knife marks or cuts in this material also tend to fill up with dirt and tend to make the countertop look ugly no matter what it’s age. This is actually one of my favorite kitchen countertop materials however because it’s a great surface to prepare baking goods and food. To get around the problems with this material, I’ve simply purchased special plastic cutting boards that resist heat, have them cut into the laminate counter where I usually put hot pans and do my cutting. I get all the benefits of laminate kitchen countertops without the usual problems

Next up, is ceramic tile. Nothing can beat ceramic tile for that “Old World” hand crafted look. The tile itself doesn’t burn, scorch, or cut with normal wear. There’s a wide array of colors, textures and because it’s a hand installed product, you can get as fancy or as plain as you prefer. Beautiful stuff Really. There’s two big problems with ceramic tile however. First, because it’s tile, there’s also grout lines. Although the tile doesn’t stain, the grout lines do however. This means that white stuff shows if you have darker grout and darker stuff will show if you have lighter or white tile. Grout maintenance, although not difficult still should be a consideration. The other issue is only a problem if you bake. Rolling out dough on a tile surface is difficult because of the grout lines and tile imperfections. A ceramic tile kitchen countertop is not smooth or perfectly flat.

One type of kitchen countertop growing rapidly in popularity is the solid surface and granite type counters. Solid surface materials are man made while the granite is natural. Each however offer a beautiful blend of natural blend of color that can give your kitchen a clean, upscale look. These materials come in a variety of colors with the solid surface being available in solid and multi colors. Granite typically looks like a multi colored aggregate with a deep glowing tone. The two biggest issues with these products however are the same. The first is price. Both solid surface and granite kitchen countertops can be considered some of the high end, most expensive options available. 100-150 dollars per running foot of countertop is typical. This also may or may NOT include any back splash on the counter. The other issue with both the solid surface and granite countertop materials is the rather limited selection. You will need to be very satisfied with your selection as unlike the cheaper plastic laminate kitchen counter, replacing this material is expensive.

We have a wide range of kitchen countertop selections that continue to grow in both type of material and product selection. When choosing what is right for you, be aware of the possible issues so in the end you can be happy and satisfied with your investment no matter what the selection.

Types of Staple-Up Radiant Heating Systems

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For existing homes, a staple-up radiant heat system has become quite popular, but like all products a staple-up radiant heat system needs to be installed correctly. Listed here are some additional products to consider that will maximize your heating efficiency and save you money.


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Under-floor radiant heat is ideal for homeowners that want to take advantage of the clean, even heat of a radiant heat system, but without the additional cost and labor of replacing your entire floors.

Under-floor radiant heat systems are installed underneath the current sub floor between the floor joists. This kind of installation is not as responsive as the aluminum base method but is more responsive than the thermal mass method.

Under-floor radiant heat needs to heat the wood sub-floor and floor covering above so it can radiate heat into your home. This makes it the most unobtrusive radiant heat to install in an existing home. It will not add any additional floor height or disrupt your existing floor coverings.

There are a few common under-floor installation methods: staple-up with heat transfer plates, staple-up without heat transfer plates, and hanging tubing in the joist space. This is how they differ.

Staple-Up With Heat Transfer Plates

These systems use thin aluminum heat transfer plates that are stapled up with radiant heat tubing under your subfloor. The plates are highly conductive and provide a large surface area that will absorb heat more quickly and keep it warm much longer. Using heat transfer plates will disburse heat more evenly throughout the floor than the other under-floor methods.

Most manufactures will make heat transfer plates to accept different sizes of tubing. So you need to match the width of your heat transfer plates to the size of your tubing. Heat transfer plates also range anywhere from 5 to 12 inches wide depending on the brand you choose.

You will want to get the best plate coverage possible. If using narrow plates, you should run two rows between each floor joist. By separating the tubing runs by around 8″ you will obtain a much more even heating pattern in the floor above.

Check each heat transfer plate before you insert them into the tubing. Be aware of any sharp edges on the transfer plates as they might cut or damage the tubing. Installation is easy, simply snap the plate around the tubing and fasten it to the underside of the sub-floor.

If you are installing 12″ wide plate, you will usually find pre-made grooves for two tubes. Simply make certain that each heat transfer plate is stapled up in the center of the floor joists. When you staple up the plates, staples towards the outside edges of the plate as well as one row of staples down the middle.

By placing the staples on the outside edges of the plates you allow the tubing to be away from the sub floor and will help prevent any noises caused by expansion and contraction of the tubing.

Staple Up Without Transfer Plates

When you forgo the heat transfer place, make sure that the proper staples are used to hold the tubing in place. You do not want the tubing to directly contact the sub floor, otherwise, the tubing will make noise as it expands and contracts and rubs against the sub-floor.

Depending on what your design calls for, each tubing run should be placed around 8″ away from each other, This will ensure that you obtain a much more even heating pattern in the floor above.

Hanging in Joists Space

This system suspends the tubing several inches beneath the subfloor in the joist space. When using this method you will purchase joist heating hangers that are designed to be flexible in length, making them easy to install between the floor joists.

These hangers usually come in a couple of different lengths to accommodate joists that are 16″ or 24″ on center. Install your hangers about 2″ below the sub floor and space them out about every 3 feet. This will give you plenty of room to lay the tubing in place. You will just place the tubing on top of the Joist Heating Hangers and allow it to float on the braces.

TR Stoves powered by electricity and what their benefits are

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Just what are the benefits of owning an electric stove? There are many things you should consider before you actually purchase one.


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Are Loft Beds (Bunk Beds) Safe?

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If you are trying to maximize the space in your room, consider purchasing a loft bed or bunk bed to elevate your sleeping area. With loft beds, the bed is elevated on a platform with space left underneath for living, working, or playing. Bunk beds work on the same principal, but with another bed underneath the top bunk. Both are popular with children and teens, who often have limited space in their rooms; however, many parents worry about their safety.

Each year, thousands…


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If you are trying to maximize the space in your room, consider purchasing a loft bed or bunk bed to elevate your sleeping area. With loft beds, the bed is elevated on a platform with space left underneath for living, working, or playing. Bunk beds work on the same principal, but with another bed underneath the top bunk. Both are popular with children and teens, who often have limited space in their rooms; however, many parents worry about their safety.

Each year, thousands of children are rushed to emergency rooms after falling from the top bunk of their bunk beds or loft beds, while many more receive less serious injuries that are not seen by a medical professional. Typically, the main reason of injury involving bunk beds or lofts beds is horseplay and not from improperly installed beds. Before you purchase bunk beds or loft beds for your child, consider the age of the child and plan to make rules regarding the use of the bed. Although younger children are thought to experience more injuries, the most problems occur with older children who are more apt to disregard rules and exhibit unsafe or risky behavior.

For the most part, bunk beds and loft beds are just as safe as conventional beds. For smaller children, consider designating the lower bunk as their bed instead of allowing them to regularly climb to the top bunk. Also, ensure the bed is properly maintained and meets all current safety regulations and standards. Additionally, approximately eight percent of bunk bed related falls and injuries that must seek medical attention are related directly to the ladder. In addition to ensuring the ladder is properly installed, instruct your child on the correct method of ascending and descending the ladder.

When you begin searching for an appropriate bunk bed or loft bed for your child, choose a bed that appeals to all the safety standards. A bunk bed should have guard rails that have no more than three and one-half inches of space between the rail and the mattress. This will prevent children from falling through the space and potentially injuring themselves. If necessary, you may need to install extra boards if the space between the guard rail and the mattress. Furthermore, the guard rail needs to extend no less than five inches above mattress so that your child will be unable to roll off the top bunk.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the bunk bed or loft bed your purchase has guard rails on both sides. Even though one side of the bed will be placed next to a wall, a guard rail is essential due to a child potentially falling next to the wall and becoming trapped between the wall and the bed frame. Again, the guard rail should be no greater than three and one-half inches above the bed frame. Also, you should ensure that the mattress purchased to fit the bunk bed or loft bed properly fits the frame. Many parents choose to use a preexisting mattress used on a child-sized bed that is smaller than a traditional twin bed frame. Children can potentially fall between the mattress and the frame in this situation, so you should ensure the mattress is of the proper size.

In addition to ensuring the mattress is of proper size, you should also check that the mattress foundation is properly suspended above the bottom bunk or the space below. If the bed sits on a wooden platform, consider reinforcing the mattress with wooden slats or metal straps. This will prevent the top bunk from collapsing, especially if the lower occupant is kicking or pushing the above mattress.

By purchasing a quality, well constructed bunk bed or loft bed that meets all safety guidelines, you can make certain that your child will be safe and free from injury from the bed.

MV Plug-in table and standard lamps can be positioned just where needed

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There’s nothing quite so attractive as a room lit by the warm, comfortable blow of a table lamp. Positioned on low sofa tables, on shelves, a chest, or a sideboard, a table lamp can be used to illuminate a collection, brighten a dark corner, or provide a pool of light for reading.


table lamp

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Preventing Basement and Crawlspaces Mold

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Basement and crawlspaces present serious challenges in mold prevention mainly due to lack of air circulation and dampness. These conditions make it harder to control air quality. However, using simple prevention methods, preventing mold in the basement is possible.

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Mold is a very common basement and crawlspaces problem as it presents a real challenge in controlling air quality. Basements and crawlspaces are is usually damp and in many cases use as a storage area, providing optimal growth conditions to molds. There are two important aspects to basements and crawlspaces mold prevention:

1. Controlling Humidity Levels

The first step to mold prevention is to successfully control humidity levels. Start with measuring humidity levels and detecting any unusual readings. Take measurements every 3 months to keep track of any changes that may occur when the weather changes. If humidity levels readings are higher than 45 percent, your basement is likely to suffer from mold and you must take action to detects and fix any moisture sources to lower humidity levels. Regularly inspect your basement for any water damages that generate visible or hidden moisture sources. Act fast to fix problems such as leaks or standing water. Another way to control humidity is to allow air circulation. Although it may be hard to generate air flow in the basement or crawlspace it is important. You can improve air flow by keeping you basement tidy and opening the basement door from time to time and leave a fan running for a few hours. Consider installing a dehumidifier in the basement to reduce air moisture especially during warm months. If you detect any cracks in walls or floor, seal them immediately.

2. Smart Storage

If you organize your basement and crawlspaces you take another important step towards mold elimination. Try to avoid storing papers, clothes, in the basement and crawlspaces because these materials can be used as nutrition for molds allowing it to spread even faster if humidity levels rise above 50 percent. If you must store these materials in your basement or crawlspace, do your best to reduce the amount of these stored materials and discard if badly damaged. In addition, if you must store these materials in the basement or crawlspace, make sure to place them properly. Proper placement means that you need to store them away from outer walls, since that is where moisture is most likely to originate. For the same reason, raise these stored materials from the floor and place them on a table or a raised surface. Never store firewood in the basement or crawlspace because it is common for firewood to become likely to become moldy within hours from the minute humidity levels raise. When firewood becomes moldy, it generates airborne mold spores that may contaminate your indoors air quality and in some cases penetrate the HVAC system and contaminate your home by traveling through your ducts.

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Choose Your Carpet Cleaning Chemical Carefully

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You spent a lot of money for your carpeting. It makes perfect sense to take care of it. These days everything seems to be getting better and better… your carpet cleaning chemical is no different.

There are many carpet cleaning chemicals available on the market today, and the correct choice depends on the job you need done. Carpet cleaning chemicals can be loosely divided into four categories, according to their function: cleaning, controlling or counteracting odors, protec…


carpet cleaning chemical

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You spent a lot of money for your carpeting. It makes perfect sense to take care of it. These days everything seems to be getting better and better… your carpet cleaning chemical is no different.

There are many carpet cleaning chemicals available on the market today, and the correct choice depends on the job you need done. Carpet cleaning chemicals can be loosely divided into four categories, according to their function: cleaning, controlling or counteracting odors, protecting and sealing, and those chemicals designed for special tasks.

Examples are myriad. Here are a few:

Carpet cleaning chemicals for extracting soil are only the most obvious. There’s a pre-spray chemical, a carpet spot and stain remover chemical, a dry cleaning solvent and spot remover, the ubiquitous absorbent powder extraction chemical, and even a neutralizer to put everything back the way it was… only better.

Odor control carpet cleaning chemicals, as can be expected, work to neutralize or rid the carpet of odors, usually created by pets. Many have a subtle citrus fragrance.

The field of carpet protectants and sealing is perhaps where the new carpet chemicals really shine. Some are dry and some spray on, all are considered state-of-the-art necessities to protect the look and life of your carpet.

A good example of the specialty items category is the chemical used in professional extraction machines to cut down on the production of foam.

Choosing from the cornucopia of carpet cleaning chemical products can be daunting. But taking the time to research the right choices for your particular situation will be rewarding.

The experts recommend you set up a regular carpet cleaning program. Vacuum daily, they say, dry carpet clean once a week, and use a heavy-duty deep steam (or vapor) carpet extracting machine as often as necessary to keep your carpeting bright, beautiful and healthy.